Polymer Clay Gallery

For a larger picture and more information about the particular scope, click on the thumbnail.

Stainless Steel Teleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=9.5"

This is a two mirror five point teleidoscope. It's unusual for me since it's made from stainless steel instead of polymer clay.

Mica Polarized Kaleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=8"

This is a two mirror polarized kaleidoscope. There are two polarizing filters set opposite to each other which completely block out the light. Between them are bi-refringent objects such as pieces of clear plastic and clear tape which break up the light and cause the colors you see.

Textured Kaleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=2.5" Diameter=1"

This is a three mirror mini scope. I recently took an excellant class from Grant Diffendaffer on textured beads and used the same techniques on the kaleidoscope body.

Standing Tall Kaleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=7.5"

This is another three mirror tumblescope. I've always loved giraffes and had sculpted the orginal awhile ago. I made a mold of it and applied one on each side of the textured body. It was heavily antiqued with burnt sienna paint after baking.

Pinata Kaleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=2.5" Diameter=1"

This is a two mirror mini scope. I used Pinata inks to tint the white clay and create the splotched pattern. It was glazed to protect the surface and give it more shine.

Mini Mokume Gane Scope

Dimensions: Length=2.5" Diameter=1"

This kaleidoscope is covered with very thin layers of translucent clay and metallic paint. They were distorted and sliced with the mokume gane technique. Originally, mokume gane was a metal working technique but it has been adapted to polymer clay with many different variations. The scope was wet sanded up to 1000 grit, buffed, and varnished for a glasslike finish.

Victorian Lace Scope

Dimensions: Length=7.5" Diameter=1.5"

This is based on one of the kits from PolymerClayProjects.com - the single tube scope. This scope was hard to photograph but I made it as a two mirror scope - the third side is mat board with a piece of lace glued to it. If you get enough light shining in there's a nice textured backdrop around the image.

Objects included clear and frosted glass, pearls, and some irridescent crystal beads with the dichroic coating. They look rather interesting in the image since the clear beads reflect blue and purple when backlit.

Seahorse Wand Scope

Dimensions: Length=2.5" Diameter=1"

This was my first miniature wand kaleidoscope. I sculpted the seahorse, then molded it and applied three of them to the scope. It was then painted with tinted liquid clay for a glazed effect. The "glaze" was partially set with a heat gun before baking so that it would not run.

Irridescent Crackle Kaleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=2.5" Diameter=1"

This is a miniature scope with two mirrors. The crackles are metallic and the clay underneath has mica particles in it which also reflect the light - basically you roll out a sheet of clay (this was a mix of gold and copper) paint it with some acrylic metallic inks, let it dry completely, and roll it out thinner. The clay stretches but the ink cracks, giving you the crackled look. You can do the same thing with gold or silver leaf. You just have to glaze it afterwards to protect the surface.

Nautica Kaleidoscope

Dimensions: Length=9" Diameter=1.75"

This is my favorite kaleidoscope so far. The body is covered with faux ivory polymer clay which I molded and sculpted into a seascape. The mermaid, dolphins, seahorses, etc are my own designs - I made molds of the original sculpts so I could reuse them. Most of the shells are from molds of real shells.

This kaleidoscope is based on a kit from Boston Clayworks. The kit comes with balck plastic endcaps but I chose to make my own out of clay. I also ordered the empty oil cell so I could fill it myself with glycerin, dichroic glass pieces and some flameworked glass stringers.

The interior images really don't do the dichroic effect justice - depending on the light there are really intense reds or purples or greens... They merge with the stringers and the other glass bits so all the colors combine. The image keeps changing even after you stop turning it because everything is floating so each pattern is unexpected.